Saturday, March 17, 2012

our first adventure in our *new* old car

We bought a Volvo wagon! I couldn’t go any longer without a car. The longer and warmer days are making me stir crazy to get out of the city! Today the Volvo took us out to the coast to the Strömbäck-Knot nature reserve. We did some walking and playing in the snow at the shore’s edge and some skiing.

Amelia has become a really good skier already. Today she figured out how to kick and add some glide to her step.


icy coast...




snow waves

spring is in the air

The short winter days are over. We’ll revisit them again along with the beautiful soft winter light next year. Lately the sun has been bright and gets high in the sky. Today the sun rose at 5:49 am and set at 5:46 pm. It’s hard to believe that in a few days we’ll have more light than darkness. We still have at least a foot of snow in town and there are no flowers popping up or trees budding, so it seems hard to believe that the first day of spring is next week, but we are enjoying the sunshine.

Here are some pictures of our winter life:

This is outside our front door. Amelia is getting more brave lately. There are 20+ foot piles of snow all around town and she has been enjoying climbing them and making slides down them. Yes, we wear snow pants every day!

We are fortunate to be able to ski from our front door into the forest near our home.



Amelia is enjoying taking a dance class and wants to play dance class just about every day. I add a little yoga so I get to do some yoga ;)

We've spent many hours doing arts and crafts. She particularly likes making fairies. She's drawn them, painted them, made play-dough fairies, and even fairies out of pipe cleaners.

In this picture she's sewing a bear. Thanks Grandma Cindy, Grandpa Klatt, and Emily! He is stuffed, has a bow tie, eyes, a smily face and has been named Sewy.



Thankfully there are indoor play areas. There has been lots of jumping on the coach and bed too.

There are several neighborhood centers around town and churches that have a space for children, young and old. The spaces are very nice with toys and kitchens and gyms. Amelia and I have been consistently going to two playgroups. The öppna förskolor/playgroups are for parents and children to attend. However, most of the children are under a year and half. Families are given 18 months of paid leave to be with the little ones. The time is split between both parents and I think it is required that the dad spends at least two months with the baby while the mom goes back to work. The 18 months do seem flexible though. The family can spread these 18 months paid leave time and work part time or postpone them. Once that paid time is over it seems very common that both parents are back to work and children go to förskolan/daycare, which is free. It seems very uncommon to be a stay-at-home parent beyond this paid leave. (There isn’t a lot of diversity in ways of doing things here in Sweden). The only older kids we see at playgroups are the siblings of the babies. The parents tend to reduce the older children’s time at the daycare to be with them during their paid leave with the new baby.

We have made some friends and learned about Swedish culture by going to the öppna förskolor. Amelia has learned some Swedish! Can you tell which song it is?


Sunday, February 12, 2012

getting out of town

Thank you Europcar! I must admit, I felt like an adventurous 16 year old when I drove off the car rental lot. I just wanted to explore and drive out to the coast just 20 km away but still unseen after 6 weeks of being here. I felt a sense of freedom having a car!




It was foggy Saturday so we drove just outside of town to Leo's Lekland, a large indoor playground.

Upon entering Leo's, Amelia's eyes sparkled and she got an ecstatic skip in her step at the sight of the slides, tunnels, ladders, balls, bikes... Chris and Carrie had a lot of fun too!

Later in the day we drove to the coast. Amelia was passed out in the carseat, tired from play at Leo's Lekland, and the weather outside was dismal. We didn't venture far or hang around too long. At least I've now seen the Baltic Sea/Gulf of Bothnia.










Saturday night the clouds dropped their snow and then cleared away, giving the sun a chance to shine down on us! We drove north out of town to ski part of the Tavelsjöleden. (I think leden translates to trail.) Beautiful blue ski, no wind, relatively warm... magical! While we were skiing Amelia mentioned several times that she wanted her own skis (rather than sit in the Chariot). We stopped at the Vintercafe in the small town of Tavelsjö on the way home. Reindeer antlers hung on the wall and a ski race played on the TV. Once again Amelia said she wanted her own skiis...




On the way home, we stopped by a huge grocery store on the north side of town. It is kind of like a super Target with groceries and much more. Chris spotted some children's cross country skis on sale and picked them up for her. I was a bit shocked at his impulse buy. Seriously, he doesn't want to look at Blockett first (the on-line classifieds) or other places around town. I ask him about it. He says, 'Oh that is all too complicated here'. And we have a car now. As soon as we got home she tried on her skis and did some laps around the apartments. She likes the downhills! Alright, Amelia and I will do some skiing this week. Fun!
I do hope she will get into the Chariot again so Chris and I can actually do some skiing.

Will you put dinkelmjöl on the grocery list?

Will you put dinkelmjöl on the grocery list?

We are speaking in Swenglish ;) Dinkelmjöl is spelt flour in case you are wondering.

Now that I’ve been to seven grocery stores, I’ve decided that I can write about them. There seems to be a grocery store in every neighborhood, although it may be small. There are basically only two grocery stores companies, COOP and ICA. It also seems that most areas have both competing stores. They are often even right next door to one another (see picture in Ålidhem central). (Oh yeah, they are capitalists here!) I haven’t yet decided which one is my favorite, as I haven’t really figured out how they are exactly different. It’s not like there is a Safeway, a Town ‘N Country, and a Bozeman CO-OP (reference for the Bozeman folks) with differences in price, health food, organics. The COOP here is not a co-op, it is pronounced ‘coup’ like a chicken coop. I guess both stores are a bit more like a Town ‘N Country, stores where you can find a bit of everything, including organic food and even a biodynamic/organic line Salta Kvarn, produced in southern Sweden. The selection just depends on the size of the store. There is also one kind of “health food store” that also sells other natural products. They have a few things that ICA and COOP don’t but mostly have the organic and natural brands that are also at the other stores.

Unfortunately the COOP doesn’t have Bozeman’s co-op yummy bulk tofu or the large bulk aisles of whole grains, oils, flours, and beans. Instead most of their bulk is CANDY! Yes, a large area of their store is devoted to candy. I found this at all COOP and ICA stores. Note in the picture that there are three candy areas in ONE relatively small downtown COOP store. And I wonder why they have three different areas. Why don’t they just put all the candy in one section?

I’m trying to figure out how they organize their stores. I look at unfamiliar labels of flour or beans and try to decide which to buy. Sometimes I can figure out the meaning of the Swedish if it’s similar to English, like röda linser (red lentil). I’m lucky if there is a picture on the label or the package is clear and I can see inside. I finally make my decision and then find a couple aisles over that there are more packages of flour or beans or tomato sauce to choose from. Besides candy, the store also has a very large variety of cheeses. I wish I was a cheese connoisseur to fully take advantage of this jackpot. Amelia likes the mild creamy Herrgård while Chris is fond of the salty strong tasting regional cheese, Västerbotten.

Fortunately we are able to find most things we like to eat. I suppose we can live without tempeh and molasses. Thanks to friends for sending us nutritional yeast! Its actually quite amazing what foods are available considering how far north we are. We are almost at the Arctic Circle. I suppose people don’t want to eat moose and reindeer stew all winter long. I have been surprised by what they do have here. There isn’t much of a selection of winter squash or greens but their exotic fruit selection is immense. I’ve never seen fruits they sell shipped here from South America, the Mediterranean and Africa. We haven’t explored the exotic fruit selection yet or all the diverse dairy products including shrimp and cheese in a tube. However, I am excited about all the berries we will be picking this late summer. I dug down a few feet in the snow in the forest near our house and found blueberry bushes!

I am starting to learn Swedish food words so shopping is starting to get easier!

Most herbs and some lettuce are sold in pots… so far north they have to ship them in pots so that they survive? Do you see the sad leaves? This basil plant did not like our cold walk home.

*Our favorite word at the store is jordgubbe, pronounced ‘yourgubber’, which is Swedish for strawberry.*

Our favorite character so far is this Turkish yogert guy. What do you think he is saying? ‘Oh so good!” ??

Or maybe these characters are even better. ?? They aren't found at the grocery store though. This is the alcohol store bag. ;) Wine, beer, and liquor is sold at the government run liquor store.

Monday, January 30, 2012

the key that opens the door

Imagine having a room with treats and comforts inside. You know that things like your pillow, sunglasses, your favorite coffee mug, salt, honey, a chocolate bar, and hot running water are inside the room; those things that add comfort to your life. The only thing is THE ROOM IS LOCKED. At some point you know that the key will be mailed to you but you don’t have any idea when. It’s out of your control, you must wait.

Here our key is a personnumber and the room is the Swedish system. Once we have a personnumber we are allowed to hop onto the tracks of everyday life here in Sweden. We are officially acknowledged as residents in this country.

Today, Monday January 30th, a bit more than a month after being here, our keys arrived in the mail! We momentarily jump for joy. Yeah! Now we are covered by the Swedish health care system and have been told about other benefits that we will receive. For instance, I will receive a small stipend for being a stay at home mom. Amelia is entitled to 15 hours a week of free preschool. However, now that we have a key, we walk through the door to find a maze in order to gather up all these comforts and luxuries.

We walked downtown today at 4:00 to open up a bank account, which requires a personnumber. The door is locked, lights out. The bank closes at 3:00 everyday of the week except for Thursday. A man coming out of the bank says, ‘Oh you can do it on-line.’ He says it as if it is SOO easy. We believe him. We got on-line at home and after lots of Google Translate we give up and decide that we’ll just go back downtown on Thursday. We need someone to show us how to do the internet money transfers anyway. I don’t think there is much cash flowing around Umeå, instead bank transfers. I asked if I could pay for Amelia’s dance class with cash since we didn’t have a bank. The response was ‘Um, no. You can just wait to transfer money once you have your bank account set up.’ Even some yoga classes ask for internet money transfers.

Here we go in the maze to figure this all out. On the list of things to do now that we have personnumbers also include getting a phone and a frequent shopper card at the grocery store so we can attempt to cut some costs there. Can you believe it? You even need a personnumber to get a phone and to save on those special deals at the grocery store.

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

What do you do in all this snow?

What do you do in all this snow? SKI!

It’s Sunday morning, 8:00. The sun is rising. The sky is filled with pastel orange and pink. I walk through the empty snow covered open air museum to get into Stadsliden, the forest near our home. Trails weave around the forest and are groomed for cross country ski and skate skiers. I see a little stream that I hadn’t noticed before. Its quiet now and I see no other person as I ski and decide to go along the 3.7 km loop. I’m excited to ski in the tracks down the big hill I know is coming up on this loop.

The first time we skied in Stadsliden it was like a super highway. We were like an old VW bus pulling a trailer in the slow lane, trying to stay out of the way. We idled along checking out the scenery and stopped to chat with a great grandma on skis. Others were zipping by in the latest model sports cars. Amelia’s trailer slows us down, as does our skis and our technique or rather lack of technique.

While at InterSport, we were (possibly) clued into the ski scene a bit around here. To enjoy the long winters, I’m sure most opt to ski here in town. There are at least 8 groomed ski trails in the central part of Umea. (Likely, some people have several types of skis and also get out in nature some and take a weekend at the ski resorts closer to Norway.) The ski selection seemed telling. Next to a small selection of backcountry skis (the style we used in MT), were walls and racks of speedy skis, not only speedy skate skis but also speedy classic skis. We didn’t want to spend lots of money on skis that we probably wont use back in the US (hopefully we can sell them here) so we opted for some crappy skis that actually costs a fair amount of money. I knew things were expensive in Sweden but I didn’t think they sold crap. Oh well. We have skis with fish scales and no camber instead of the super speedy wax skis like most everyone else here. The sales guy was right, these skis basically have brakes on them. Along with fancy skis, folks here have some fancy moves. I’m fairly new to the whole ski thing but I thought if you want to ski fast then you *skate* ski. Here they even ski quickly on classic cross country skis. They ski in the tracks but kind of lift up their back foot to give them a big fast push.

That first day we skied happened to also be the day after their first big dump of snow for the season and the sun was out and the sky beautiful blue. Maybe this gem of a forest that we are fortunate to live near wont always be a super highway. Hopefully, it will be like it is today. I turn a corner and merge onto another trail. I see one other skier and two old ladies walking. I hear the birds chirping and again I’m facing south. It’s about an hour after I left home and the sun is still rising. The sky is pastel pink and orange and the light of day is just beginning to fill the sky.



Skiing is in their blood. This photo is of a 5,000 year old ski found in Västerbotten (the county we live in). It’s believed to be the world’s oldest ski.

Here are some photos in Stadsliden taken the second day we were in Umea. Now at least a foot of snow is covering the forest and trails.

Sunday, January 15, 2012

Sweden has Great Tits!

Photo: Luc Viatour, Wikipedia

Parus major, that is... the great tit most common bird here in Umeå. The Swedish word for the great tit is "Talgoxe", but perhaps the English word speaks more to their sexual behaviour: while the great tits are socially monogomous and establish breeding pairs, these birds are customary cuckholders. One study found that up to 40% of the nests that were sampled contained offspring from a different male than the father, and 8.5% of chicks are (forgive the anthropomorphism) 'bastard birds' (Strohbach et al. 1998 Behavioural Ecology 9: 388–396).

Carrie snapped this shot at the birdfeeder near our home:


Here are some of the other birds we've found to be common here in Umeå (we even have magpies!):

English common name Swedish common name Latin name
Great Tit Talgoxe Parus major
Blue Tit Blåmes Parus caeruleus
Eurasian Bullfinch Domherre Pyrrhula pyrrhula
Fieldfare Björktrast (Birch thrush) Turdus pilaris
European Magpie Skata Pica pica
Commoon Blackbird Koltrast (Coal thrush) Turdus merula
Yellowhammer Gulsparv (Yellow sparrow) Emberiza citrinella
Eurasian Tree Sparrow Pilfink (Arrow finch) Passer montanus
Brambling Bergfink (Mountain finch) Fringilla montifringilla
European Greenfinch Grönfink (Green finch) Carduelis chloris


And here are a few more shots of the winter from this past weekend.

Björk(birch) near Nydala lake (Nydalasjön)


All hands: storming the sea at the beach at Nydalasjön